As part of the BioSmart project, an initiative I have been working on for the past three years focusing on agroforestry and silvopastoral systems in the Colombian Amazon, I recently had the opportunity to visit the vibrant city of Cali to be part of a workshop with experts on the area.
From the moment I arrived, I was embraced by Cali’s tropical climate and the genuine hospitality of its locals. Aside from some pesky mosquito souvenirs, my journey went smoothly. I spent the day before the workshop exploring every corner of the city centre, taking in the sights, sounds, and flavours that make Colombia so special. Even though I still can’t visit the region focus of my research, Caquetá, this is by far the closest I have been.
During my first day in Cali, I was lucky enough to explore the main areas of the city known for its food and love for salsa. I visited the Museo de Arte Colonial y Religioso La Merced and had the opportunity to learn more about the rich culture of its indigenous people. On my way to the historic centre of Cali I witnessed a group of street artists painting an amazing mural and I was lucky enough to talk with them for a while to understand their art and influences.
Later I visited a monument dedicated to the ‘Niche’ salsa band, one of the greatest in all of Colombia and South America. This huge structure with a trumpet shape plays salsa music all day, and you can bet I went for a little dance. It was fantastic and a small sample of the ‘magic realism’ that surrounds Colombia. After this, I treated myself to some local cuisine, including lengua de vaca (beef tongue), rice, and aborrajados (fried plantains and cheese). The new flavours and textures amazed me, as they’re not easy to find in the UK or Chile.
On my second day and upon arriving at the International Centre for Tropical Agriculture (CIAT), one of the world’s leading research institutes on agriculture and natural resources, I was greeted not only by my colleagues but also by an awe-inspiring display of biodiversity, by far one of the best attributes of this region. Together, we explored the research facilities, marvelling at the multitude of species that called this place home. The chorus of birdsong, the croak of frogs, and the hum of insects created a symphony that seemed to reverberate through the very air around us.
The accommodations at CIAT were great, and it was a nice opportunity to socialize with other workshop guests during delicious meals and warm evenings. We had many interesting conversations and exchanged ideas and experiences. The food served probably deserves a report of its own, but I must mention the elusive Lulo, *Solanum quitoense*, a fruit with an unparalleled flavor (imagine a tasty mixture of pineapple, kiwi, and passion fruit, and you might get close, even though genetically it’s related to the tomato). From the refreshing sip of lulada (Lulo’s juice) to the tangy taste of champus (a mixture of lulo, maize, and other fruits), each sip was a revelation, a reminder of the boundless creativity of Colombian cuisine.
After settling in, I got to work with my colleagues from BioSmart, guided by Dr. Lois Kinneen, to finalize the questionnaire we had prepared for the workshop. The first day was a big success, with experts from diverse backgrounds coming together to delve into silvopastoral systems. It was rewarding to see them get on board with the methodology we proposed and become genuinely excited about it. I also received some comments and interest in the idea of measuring the potential for SPS projects in the region.
Starting the next day, we presented the questionnaire results and gave the experts time to provide feedback and refine their responses. Though we still need to fully analyse the data, it was great to see agreement on many areas, despite the group’s diversity. There was consensus on a publication plan and enthusiasm to continue meetings as an ongoing group.
Afterwards, we met with Julian Chara at CIPAV to discuss their agroforestry projects in Enrique Murgueitio’s office – an author that inspired the work on one of our most recent papers!
Our journey reached its crescendo on the final day, as we ventured into the heart of Cali’s bustling farmers’ market. Our venture into the local market was amazing. We had the opportunity to try the tinto (a super strong espresso coffee), and even on a warm day, enjoying this cup of coffee was a superb experience. Amidst the kaleidoscope of colours and aromas, I found myself transported back to the familiar sights of my Chilean home, reminding me how intrinsically connected the agricultural systems in South America are, not only by geography but also by historical context and culture.
As I reluctantly bid farewell to Cali, I couldn’t help but feel a longing to return. The warmth of its people, the beauty of its landscapes, and the richness of its culture had left an indelible mark on my soul. Indeed, the lure of the Lulo alone was enough to beckon me back to this magical land once more. Until we meet again, Cali, may your spirit continue to dance in the hearts of all who have had the privilege of knowing you.