{"id":31574,"date":"2025-07-23T15:35:48","date_gmt":"2025-07-23T14:35:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/research.reading.ac.uk\/research-blog\/?p=31574"},"modified":"2025-07-23T15:33:50","modified_gmt":"2025-07-23T14:33:50","slug":"hosepipe-ban-survival-guide-which-garden-plants-to-save-and-which-to-sacrifice","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/research.reading.ac.uk\/research-blog\/2025\/07\/23\/hosepipe-ban-survival-guide-which-garden-plants-to-save-and-which-to-sacrifice\/","title":{"rendered":"Hosepipe ban survival guide: which garden plants to save and which to sacrifice"},"content":{"rendered":"

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image=”31575″ img_size=”large” add_caption=”yes” alignment=”center”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]With hosepipe bans\u00a0in force<\/a>\u00a0across several English regions and more restrictions likely to follow, gardeners face some tough choices. When every drop counts, which plants deserve your precious water from the water butt, and which should you leave to fend for themselves?<\/p>\n

As someone who has researched how British gardeners need to adapt to respond to our changing climate, I can tell you that not all garden plants are created equal when it comes to water needs. Some plants will bounce back from a summer scorching, while others\u00a0may never recover<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Top plants to prioritise for watering<\/h2>\n

1. New woody plants<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Any woody plant installed in the last 12-18 months should be your absolute priority. These haven\u2019t yet developed the\u00a0deep root systems needed<\/a>\u00a0to find moisture reserves and going without enough water the first year or so after planting could kill them.<\/p>\n

Water thoroughly and add a deep mulch of wood chips to help the soil hold water. For young trees you can install a watering bag around the trunk but you still need to top it up.<\/p>\n

2. Hydrangeas<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Hydrangeas\u00a0adopt a conservative strategy<\/a>\u00a0when it comes to drought. They shut their stomata (leaf pores) rapidly when they sense dry soil, and keep them closed until consistent moisture returns. They often drop their leaves too.<\/p>\n

This can mean\u00a0many weeks without growth<\/a>, after even a relatively short drought period. So if you want to keep them looking at their best, they need consistent watering. You can cut growth back to reduce water loss, and save the the plant at the cost of flowers.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image=”31576″ img_size=”large” add_caption=”yes” alignment=”center”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

3. Moisture loving trees<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Japanese maples (Acer palmatum<\/em>), along with other moisture-loving trees like birch and beech, are\u00a0prone to serious die-back<\/a>\u00a0during summer droughts. Their shallow root systems and large leaves make them particularly vulnerable to water stress. Water and mulch them.<\/p>\n

4. Soft herbaceous plants<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Astilbe, dicentra, filipendula, heuchera, primula, trollius and many other soft herbaceous plants\u00a0require good moisture levels<\/a>\u00a0and may not survive prolonged drought.<\/p>\n

5. Shallow-rooted shrubs<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Rhododendrons and azaleas are shallow-rooted shrubs particularly susceptible to drought stress, especially the large-leaved evergreen species which are also\u00a0prone to wind damage<\/a>\u00a0when stressed.<\/p>\n

6. Clematis<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Many clematis varieties\u00a0struggle with drought<\/a>. Since they\u2019re often grown for their spectacular flowering displays, maintaining adequate moisture around the roots is crucial, especially for autumn-flowering varieties, or spring-flowering varieties which flower on the previous year\u2019s growth.<\/p>\n

A gravel mulch can help keep the roots cool and damp. However, clematis orientalis, terniflora, and evergreens such as C. cirrhosa can be\u00a0surprisingly tolerant<\/a>\u00a0of a hot dry period.<\/p>\n

7. Ripening vegetables<\/strong><\/h3>\n

If you\u2019re growing vegetables, prioritise crops approaching harvest and those that split when moisture returns after drought, such as carrots. Runner beans and courgettes need moist soil to keep cropping and potato yields are\u00a0heavily influenced<\/a>\u00a0by water levels.<\/p>\n

8. All the pots<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Anything in pots has limited access to soil moisture reserves and will need regular attention. Move containers to shadier spots if possible. Always use a pot saucer to hold water and prevent it draining away.<\/p>\n

Plants that can survive without extra water<\/h2>\n

Research into\u00a0plant water-stress<\/a>\u00a0shows that many common garden plants are surprisingly resilient.<\/p>\n

Forsythia adopts a\u00a0risk-taking strategy<\/a>. It keeps growing and photosynthesising even when soil moisture becomes limited, gambling that it can regrow after damage. This makes it remarkably drought-tolerant. It is also tolerant of heavy pruning which can save it in severe conditions.<\/p>\n

Mediterranean shrubs like lavender, rosemary, sage and thyme are naturally adapted to\u00a0dry conditions<\/a>. Their grey, hairy or waxy leaves are evolved to conserve moisture. Soil conditions are crucial though. If the plants are deep rooted they will draw water up, but if your soil is shallow or compacted they might well be less drought tolerant.<\/p>\n

Sedums, sempervivums and other succulents store water in their fleshy leaves and can survive extended dry periods. RHS research identifies\u00a0Sedum spectabile<\/em>\u00a0as particularly\u00a0reliable under stress<\/a>.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image=”31577″ img_size=”large” add_caption=”yes” alignment=”center”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Ornamental grasses generally have\u00a0efficient root systems<\/a>\u00a0and many species actually prefer drier conditions once established.<\/p>\n

Established shrubs including cistus, phlomis, buddleja, cotoneaster, berberis and viburnum have deep roots and\u00a0proven track records<\/a>\u00a0for drought survival. The RHS report identifies these as garden stalwarts, with high stress resilience.<\/p>\n

Some trees, including eucalyptus, bay (Laurus nobilis<\/em>) and holm oak are\u00a0remarkably drought tolerant<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Those to sacrifice<\/h2>\n

Grass lawns are thirsty and can be left to go dormant. If you have a newly seeded or turfed lawn from this year, some limited watering may be justified. But in general, embrace the golden colour of water-stressed lawns. As long as you don\u2019t create too many bare patches from over-use, the green colour and growth\u00a0will come back<\/a>\u00a0when it rains.<\/p>\n

Annual bedding plants like busy lizzies and begonias have shallow root systems and high water demands. However, they are only there for one season and are easily replaceable, so prioritise them for watering only if they\u2019re particularly important to your garden\u2019s summer display and you can spare the water. You could save some by potting them up and enjoying a display that needs less water.<\/p>\n

When you do water,\u00a0research shows<\/a>\u00a0that technique is crucial. Water thoroughly but less frequently to encourage deep root growth. Focus water at the base of plants rather than on leaves, and water in early morning or evening to reduce evaporation.<\/p>\n

Consider \u201csplit-root\u201d watering for established shrubs \u2013 water one side of the plant thoroughly, then switch to the other side two to three weeks later. This keeps plants hydrated while chemical signals from the dry side\u2019s roots prevent excessive new growth that would increase water demands.<\/p>\n

This drought is a taste of Britain\u2019s gardening future. The plants struggling most in this year\u2019s drought are likely to become increasingly unsuitable for British gardens without intensive irrigation.<\/p>\n

Be willing to swap out plants that suffer in drought for new plants that are more tolerant. Refresh plantings to adapt to the\u00a0new climate<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Alastair Culham, <\/span><\/a>Associate Professor of Botany, University of Reading.<\/em><\/p>\n

This article is republished from The Conversation<\/a>\u00a0under a Creative Commons license. Read the\u00a0original article<\/a>.<\/em>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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