{"id":32186,"date":"2025-12-19T14:58:18","date_gmt":"2025-12-19T14:58:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/research.reading.ac.uk\/research-blog\/?p=32186"},"modified":"2025-12-19T14:58:18","modified_gmt":"2025-12-19T14:58:18","slug":"why-shoppers-buy-fast-fashion-even-if-they-disagree-with-it","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/research.reading.ac.uk\/research-blog\/2025\/12\/19\/why-shoppers-buy-fast-fashion-even-if-they-disagree-with-it\/","title":{"rendered":"Why shoppers buy fast fashion even if they disagree with it"},"content":{"rendered":"

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Every December, many shoppers plan to buy fewer things and choose more sustainable options. Yet as the month goes on, spending rises and fast fashion becomes hard to resist. Christmas has become a moment when good intentions collide with discounts and the emotional pull of seasonal fashion.<\/p>\n

That contradiction became unusually visible when fashion giant\u00a0Shein<\/a>\u00a0opened its\u00a0first permanent shop<\/a>\u00a0inside the BHV department store in Paris in November. Crowds formed as shoppers tried to get in, while protesters stood outside\u00a0holding signs and shouting \u201cshame\u201d<\/a>\u00a0over concerns about its ESG (environmental, social and governance) track record.<\/p>\n

Shein has taken rapid turnaround times and low prices to a new level, taking it beyond fast fashion to \u201cultra-fast fashion\u201d.<\/p>\n

Some other brands with retail space inside the department store announced they\u00a0planned to withdraw<\/a>\u00a0in protest at Shein\u2019s presence. And the opening of new Shein stores across France\u00a0has been delayed<\/a>.<\/p>\n

There was more controversy. The French government\u00a0demanded controls<\/a>, including age verification, on parts of Shein\u2019s online platform amid investigations into\u00a0banned weapons<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0childlike sex dolls<\/a>\u00a0on its site, placing the company under more scrutiny.<\/p>\n

When it was made aware of the products in November, a spokesman for Shein said the company was taking the issue\u00a0\u201cextremely seriously\u201d<\/a>.\u00a0It disabled<\/a>\u00a0the part of its site where third-party sellers list their products.<\/p>\n

At the same time, shoppers entering the Paris store found\u00a0higher prices than online<\/a>, which added another layer to the debate over Shein\u2019s transparency and the wider environmental and labour concerns linked to fast fashion.<\/p>\n

What makes Christmas such a powerful moment for fast fashion is not only seasonal marketing but also the psychological dynamics that help consumers assuage their environmental guilt. Fast fashion already accounts for a significant share of online clothing sales in France, and Shein has become\u00a0one of the largest<\/a>\u00a0retailers by volume, despite rising public criticism.<\/p>\n

In the UK, sales of fast fashion have reached billions of pounds, with\u00a0strong annual growth<\/a>, suggesting that affordability eventually outweighs ethical concerns.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image=”32191″ img_size=”large” add_caption=”yes”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Research into consumer behaviour<\/a>\u00a0shows that people often use moral excuses to justify questionable purchases, telling themselves that everyone else is doing the same or that the harm is distant and indirect. This softens the ethical tension long enough to make the purchase.<\/p>\n

Beyond guilt reduction, fast fashion benefits from what marketing researchers describe as\u00a0temporal discounting<\/a>. This is when consumers focus on short-term enjoyment and price rather than longer-term environmental damage.<\/p>\n

Shein\u2019s rapid production model turns digital trends into products within days, producing instant gratification. Future harms such as waste or emissions are\u00a0psychologically distant<\/a>\u00a0at the moment of buying. These mechanisms help explain why fast fashion continues to flourish even as climate concerns grow.<\/p>\n

In many ways, the Christmas rush exposes a wider conflict between consumers\u2019 ethical intentions and the realities of global retail. This paradox is not only personal. It also shapes how governments and the public respond to Shein\u2019s growing presence.<\/p>\n

The protests outside the Paris store echo\u00a0the tension<\/a>\u00a0across regulatory and societal institutions, where concerns about\u00a0labour conditions<\/a>\u00a0and environmental impact collide with the influence of a company that has become central to contemporary fashion.<\/p>\n

Why the Paris protests matter beyond ESG<\/h2>\n

It may be tempting to see the demonstrations in Paris simply as another reaction to environmental issues. Yet concerns around Shein were already part of the public debate long before the store opened. Fast fashion has relied for decades on outsourcing to cheaper manufacturing centres with limited worker protections.<\/p>\n

Even after the\u00a0Rana Plaza disaster<\/a>\u00a0in 2013 when 1,134 people (mainly garment workers), were killed in Bangladesh when their factory building collapsed, many European\u00a0fast fashion companies<\/a>\u00a0continued to face criticism about their environmental violations across global supply chains.<\/p>\n

What distinguishes the current controversy are not the ethical problems but the challenge Shein poses to the traditional balance of power in global fashion. For much of the past century, European companies dominated the industry and shaped international tastes.<\/p>\n

Now Shein\u2019s algorithmically-driven and hyperresponsive model is disrupting that dominance. This speed fuels waste and environmental damage even as its low prices keep attracting millions of shoppers.<\/p>\n

In this sense, for Shein, Paris becomes more than a retail location. Success in one of the world\u2019s fashion capitals would mark an important moment in Shein\u2019s global expansion and signal that it is no longer operating at the margins.<\/p>\n

It would also test whether this new type of fashion giant can prove itself beyond its online audience, in the eyes of regulators, partner brands and in-store shoppers.<\/p>\n

The pushback Shein faces in Paris points to\u00a0a broader anxiety<\/a>\u00a0about who now holds influence in the fashion industry. A Chinese fast fashion giant has bypassed traditional European gatekeepers and\u00a0challenged the established hierarchy<\/a>\u00a0of who shapes the industry\u2019s future.<\/p>\n

In response to a 2024 report criticising working conditions in some of the factories it uses, Shein said\u00a0in a statement<\/a>\u00a0it was \u201cactively working to improve our suppliers\u2019 practices, including ensuring that hours worked are voluntary and that workers are compensated fairly for what they do\u201d. And with regard to criticisms about its environmental impact, Shein has said its use of AI has now\u00a0cut the amount of waste<\/a>\u00a0generated in its production processes.<\/em><\/p>\n

Xuchang Chen<\/a>, Lecturer in International Business and Strategy, Henley Business School, University of Reading<\/a>. Yang Ding<\/a>, Lecturer in Marketing, University of Reading<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

This article is republished from\u00a0The Conversation<\/a>\u00a0under a Creative Commons license. Read the\u00a0original article<\/a>.<\/em>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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